Guadalupe, Deshaies travel information AUGUST 31 2022

Looking at Deshaies from our mooring buoy near the beach.

Anchoring:

We sailed into Deshaies on the Caribbean Island of Guadeloupe. The bay was almost full with anchored boats. We silently motored around the yachts to pick up a vacant, visitor’s mooring buoy near the beach.  Beware, the mooring buoys have solid welded metal rings on top, which do damage your boat. We covered the ring with rope and a towel to protect the boat.

After the second day on the buoy we were asked for a fee, but were kindly informed that if we left straight away, we would not be charged. We left immediately and anchored further back seaward, in the bay.

Dinghy Dock:

The dinghy dock at the south end of Deshaies. An image taken at sunset from the beach. The dinghy dock half way down the bay. Image taken from the town end.

There is a dinghy dock about mid-way along the bay, which leads straight into town. Beware there are several planks missing towards the sea end of the dock.  Didn’t stop the local kids jumping in the sea.

Clearing in:

We visited the Pelican Tourist Shop at the South end of the bay. Where we completed an on-line clearance form and paid €4. The shop assistant was very helpful when needed. We believe if you go to customs directly, there is no cost.

Utilities:

Water can be obtained from the fishing boat marina at the south end of the bay.  Moor inside the marina by the the grey portacabin and speak with the staff  They will direct you to a filling point. It costs 1 Euro for 100litres.  They also sell diesel at the fuel dock by the entrance but as we don’t need it, we are unclear of costs.

Grocery Shopping: 

Opposite the Pelican Tourist Shop is a Chinese owned supermarket.  It stocked a decent variety of goods and stayed open late, and during a bank holiday whilst we were there. 

There’s a second, larger store at the north end of town, one street back called Casino. It has a bigger selection of fresh fruit and veg but its debatable which store is the better. To find the best value it is worth trying in both. 

In between both stores there were local shops that sold fresh produce.  Also worthy of a mention is the very good baker, with a seating area outside, opposite the dinghy dock. Selling a variety of very delicious products and Petite Pans made to order, there was always a queue.

Things We Did.

Jardin Botanique De Deshaies.

The Botanical Gardens In Deshai, Guadeloupe.

1. Jardin Botanique De Deshaies – There’s plenty of information you can google about the history of this spectacular Botanical Garden and Wildlife Park, so I won’t repeat it here.
2. The Jardin Botanique de Deshaies is open daily from 0900hrs until 1630hrs. There is an admission fee of €15.90 for adults or €10.90 for children, with a group discount also available. Students €8.40.
3. A bus can be sent from the garden to town to pick you up – ask at The Pelican Shop.  We decided to walk; it is only 1.8km from town.  Just follow the road out South and up! The entrance on the left.  It is a steep climb up, so beware and be careful on some of the sweeping bends for oncoming traffic.  The walk down was a lot easier!
4. We spent easily 3 hours there enjoying the gardens and wildlife they have.  You follow a set path around the gardens so you don’t miss anything.  There is a beautiful abundance of flora and fauna, plus fish ponds, aviaries, flamingos, parrots and spectacular views.
5. Half way round we stopped at the Arboretum and ate our packed lunch in the shade.  Otherwise, there is an on-site restaurant that overlooks the gardens.  Or at the exit area, there is a café to buy burgers etc.  This area has plenty of seating, a child’s play area, some goats to pet and the gift shop on your way out.  Note the café queue was long and slow the day we were there.

Deshaies, a walk leading to the river source & waterfall. There was a very good, holiday market in the carpark at the start point of the walk.

1. To find the start, go to the bridge that goes over the river, the south end of town.  Follow the path that goes down the left-hand side of the river. 
2. This path will peter out.  It is believed once upon a time there was a path which went up the side of the river. We couldn’t see a path as everything was overgrown.  As the river was fairly low, we began rock hopping up and across the river bed.  This is not too difficult but you will need to be fairly agile on your feet with some level of fitness.  At times we had to scramble up or around some really large boulders and occasionally, we did have to beat a path in the undergrowth.  So watch out for tree roots.   Along the way the scenery was spectacular.  The river has formed several large rock pools that beg you to take a dip in or just cool off your feet.  We know of locals that make it up to the first few rock pools to chill and go no further, so that is an option.
3. Eventually the river forks, so be sure to take the left-hand route.  Keep following the main river up, with more rock pools to enjoy.  Eventually, due to last hurricane, the way becomes blocked with fallen trees.  When you can see a hut over on the right-hand side of the hill side of the river, you will need to climb up and out the left – hand bank. 
4. Pick the best track you can and you should hit a road. Take a right and just up ahead is a car park.  From here walk straight through, over a grassed area, where it meets the river again.  From here cross the river via boulders to a path opposite into the trees.  The route requires some rock-hopping again for about another 30 mins.  Eventually you are rewarded for your efforts and come upon the river source.  We visited in the dry season there was not much of a waterfall.  All around the high walls hung with beautiful local foliage and vines.  It made the hard slog up all worth it.
5. With a lunch stop and a few breaks in the pools along the way, it took us about 3 hours to make it to the source waterfall.
6. We returned to the car park and took the road back to town.  This is an easier route down but still about 50 mins steady walk back down to the town.  It is advisable to take plenty of fluids, as we had run out at this stage. An ice cream was our treat and most welcome when we got back into the bay.

A Walk over Hill to Grande Anse Beach from Deshaies

Above are images of the climb, to the top of the hill on the walk to Grand Anse Beach.

1. To find the start, follow the road to the north end of the bay. Up the hill past the Cemetery and towards the school.  Just before the school, there is a path on the right that takes you round the back of the school and the start of the trek.  Look for the signpost with yellow arrows.  It was raining on and off the day we did this trail, so good footwear is advisable – not to say that we didn’t still see people in flip-flops.
2. Following the path will take you right, over a small concrete bridge.  Continue onwards till it turns right.  Beware as this first part is a fairly steep climb up and in places is literally hands on anything to help you climb.  The path meanders under the trees, so affords some shelter from the sun and the light rains we were having.  At the top, on this side of the hill, there is a viewing point where you can see the entrance to Deshaies Bay. This is accessed by a path off to the left.
3. On the top of the hill is a short, fairly flat path before you begin your decent on the other side. Here on in the path zig zags its way down the hillside.  Towards the bottom there is another viewing point with a cannon looking out to sea and some benches.  Continuing on the path, as it slopes down into the trees, and towards the beach.  This trek took about 90mins with no rushing and several water breaks!
4. We cut out of the trees and straight onto the beach.  We met a couple trying to find the start of the trail, as from the beach, you cannot see the track.  From Grand Anse Beach, where the trees finish and the rock face starts, go into the treeline and you will find the path.  In addition, there is a Tsunami Sign depicting a little man running uphill. 
5. Where this side of the path actually starts, we are unclear as we stopped where we were on the beach to relax and have lunch.  You can also continue along the beach to another viewing point to look over the bay from the opposite end.
6. We took the same route back, but you could have found the main road and walked back around the hill. 

Above are images of the decent to Grand Anse Beach. Its a stunning place.

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